Kamis, 24 Mei 2012

iwan tirta

Iwan Tirta (April 18, 1935 – July 31, 2010) was an Indonesian batik fashion designer. Tirta trained as a lawyer, but became an internationally known designer.[1] He is credited with beginning the early revival of batik design during the 1970s and 1980s.[1] He also became an Indonesian and Javanese cultural advocate, as well as a food consultant, later in his career.[1]

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[edit] Biography

[edit] Early life

Iwan Tirta was born Nusjirwan Tirtaamidjaja on April 18, 1935, in Blora, Central Java.[1] Tirta, the youngest child in his family, had three older sisters.[1] His father, Moh Husein Tirtaatmidjaja, served as a justice on the Supreme Court of Indonesia from 1950 until 1958.[2] His mother was West Sumatran.[1]
Tirta originally wanted to be a diplomat as a child, though his father encouraged him to study law.[2] Tirta received a law degree from the University of Indonesia in 1958.[2] He became a professor of international law following graduation.[2] Tirta then moved to the United Kingdom to study at the London School of Economics and the School of Oriental and African Studies.[2]
He was awarded the Adlai Stevenson Fellowship to study law at Yale University in Connecticut in 1964.[1] Tirta moved to New York City upon the completion of his Yale University law degree in 1965,[2] where he worked at the United Nations headquarters for several years.[1]

[edit] Batik design

Tirta returned to Indonesia from New York in 1970.[2][3] Instead of utilizing his law degree as a profession, he started his career as a designer using traditional, hand-made batik cloth.[1] Batik is a traditional art on Tirta's native island of Java. He began studying the design, motifs and manufacture process of batik.[1]
Tirta authored several prominent books on the subject of batik.[1] An advocate of batik decades before the fabric regained popularity, Tirta's designs gained attention both in Indonesia and internationally. He designed batik clothing for U.S. President Ronald Reagan and First Lady Nancy Reagan during their visit in the 1980s. Tirta's work achieved worldwide recognition in 1994 when he designed the batik shirts worn by world leaders at the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation summitt in Bogor, Indonesia.[1] He counted Nelson Mandela among his clients.[4]
He was widely credited with the promotion of batik designs within the international fashion industry, including its magazines and fashion shows.[3] However, despite its new found popularity, Tirta was a critic of the recent revival of batik in the early 21st Century. He was especially critical of the embrace mass produced, printed batik over the traditional, handmade cloth, "The problem is that the establishment still doesn't know the difference between printed batik and the handmade one. It's our own mistake. They say *creative economy', and that's a contradiction. When the word economy comes into it ... you reduce everything to money. What we need now are good and knowledgeable patrons."[1]
Tirta expanded from batik clothing into other batik inspired products in the last years of his life. He introduced news lines of ceramics and silverware embellished with traditional batik designs.[1] Tirta also worked as a food consultant for upscale Indonesian restaurants.[5][6]
As recently as January 2010, Tirta partnered with Lydia Kusuma Hendra, the chairwoman of the PT Tri Marga Jaya Hutama ceramics company, to relaunch PT Pusaka Iwan Tirta, a line of batik-inspired ceramic dinnerware.[6] The ceramics line was called Pusaka Maha Karya (“Heritage Masterpieces”), divided into two collections, Modang and Hokokai.[6] His Hokotai collection was inspired by Hokokai batik, a form of batik which was created in the early 1940s during the Japanese occupation of Indonesia by painters in Pekalongan, Central Java, who themselves were inspired by kimonos.[6] The Modang collection was based on the batik traditionally worn by royal families in Yogyakarta.[6]
In a 2009 interview with Time Magazine, Tirta listed some of his diverse influences, which included Pakubuwono X and other Javanese royalty, novelist Pramoedya Ananta Toer, Indonesian painters Raden Saleh and Srihadi, Yves Saint Laurent, Halston, Ludwig van Beethoven Johann Sebastian Bach and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.[3]

[edit] Death

Iwan Tirta died on July 31, 2010 at Abdi Waluyo Hospital in Menteng, Central Jakarta, at the age of 75.[1][2] He had suffered from diabetes and several strokes in the preceding years[5] He was buried at Karet Bivak cemetery in Jakarta near his mother's tomb.[2]

fashion jakarta

Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) is held annually and aimed to provide directions to the Indonesian fashion industry as well as a vehicle to demonstrate its wealth in talents and creativity.[1] Ultimately, the goal is to turn Jakarta as a major fashion hub in the region and the world. Since 2008 the Fashion Week is held at the Pacific Place shopping mall in South Jakarta and organized as a collaboration between the Municipal Government of Jakarta, major stakeholders of the fashion industry and Feminagroup.
Indonesia’s leading designers such as Sebastian Gunawan, Musa Widyatmojo, Taruna K. Kusmayadi, Putu Aliki, Jeanny Ang, Lenny Agustin, Carmanita, Ghea Sukasah and Denny Wirawan] showcase their design in the event. Many of them will present collections inspired by the country’s rich heritage in different types of traditional fabrics while simultaneously keep their eyes on the present and future.[2]
On top of that, Indonesia’s crop of new talents will also be introduced in the Young Fashion Designer Award segment, otherwise known as Fashion Designer Competition (LPM). Since its inception in 1978, LPM has orbited several of Indonesia’s top designers such as Carmanita, Chossy Latu, http://www.edwardhutabarat.com/ Edward Hutabarat, Itang Yunasz, Musa Widyatmojo and Denny Wirawan. Ever since the award was reactivated in 2004, LPM has also helped the careers of new upcoming designers such as Stella Rissa,[3] Jeffrey Tan, Eny Ming, Andreas Odang, Zacky Gaficky, and Billy Tjong.
All the shows are invites-only, targeted to celebrities, socialites, buyers, local and foreign media and all who love fashion.
In 2008 Jakarta Fashion Week featured 45 designers including a collaboration segment supported by Austrade with Australian designers including Akira Isogawa [4]
In 2009, Jakarta Fashion Week presented by Bank BRI, The event held on November 14–20 and featuring 60 designers with a special collaboration program between two of Indonesia’s renowned designers (Priyo Oktaviano and Sebastian Gunawan) with two of India’s esteemed designers (Tarun Tahiliani and Malini Ramani). This exchange is part of a cultural exploration program made possible with the cooperation and support from the Embassy of India.[5]